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Ice and Rock - Mixed Routes Chamonix Mont-Blanc Range

Winter climbing has added problems like shorter daylight hours, avalanche and serac fall, and varying snow conditions.

General mountain safety rules should be followed. For the less experienced climber, mountain guides provide courses, one to one guiding. There is an extensive choice of mixed climbing in the Mont Blanc range.

A selection of classic mixed routes:

Cosmiques arete, Aiguille du Midi: A magnificent route, popular, easy access from the Midi with the last pitch finishing on one of the viewing platforms on the Midi. Snow and rock sections. 300m of ascent 3h to 4h from the Midi cablecar.

Petite Aiguille Verte: A short classic from the top of the Grands montets station. 2hr to 3h to the summit. Snow,ice and rock.

Frendo Spur, N, face Aiguille du midi: Access from the Plan d'Aiguille. A rock section 5/5c, A classic snow arete and (70°-85°) to finish on the Midi arete. 6h to 8h from start to summit. 1218m of ascent.

Super Couloir: ED, grade 4/5, 800m, 12-15hrs, A magnificent ice route, a modern classic. Technically hard, but good rock belays as abseil points.

Guide Books

There are many other areas covered by numerous guide books, offering further information on these and other ice routes: Neige, Glace et Mixte by Francois Damilano and Godefroy Perroux La Chaine du Mont Blanc 1&2, Guide Vallot.

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