He has just returned to Europe and already he's thinking about its next summit. Returning from Pakistan where he has just completed the Gasherbrum II, the Swiss mountaineer and Piolet d'Or 2009 Ueli Steck is leaving again next week, with the goal of climbing the west pillar of Makalu in Nepal.

Yesterday evening, the man with many records has made a stop at the Majestic, where, through photos and videos, he presented his very personal approach to mountaineering.

His creed is speed. He is now known because he climbed the north faces of GRand Jorasses, the Eiger and the Matterhorn in less than three hours, is now tackling alone, to other higher summits. "It is my dream to one day, make a solo route on a mountain over 8000 meters," said Ueli, who nevertheless acknowledges it will take a little time to accomplish such a performance.

Faced with criticism of his method of climbing - always higher, always faster - Ueli Steck replies that less time spent at altitude, the risks are minor. But for the man who practices express mountaineering for over five years, this is primarily a personal challenge. "It's my goal. I am looking especially for my own limitations. This is the only way I find them. In the mountains it must be active!"

in Le Dauphine, le 12 août 2009