Chamonix Valley Mountain Conditions Report - 27 August 2008
After the terrible accident due to serac fall on the Mont Blanc du Tacul on Sunday morning (24th) which caused 8 deaths, the Mont Blanc is once again in the international spotlight (see our news report).
While serac fall may be an objective danger it is very important to know the most recent conditions of the mountains before engaging in any mountaineering activity.Here's a little detail on recent Mountain Conditions from the Office de Haute Montagne:
As of August 25th:
Mont Blanc info: The restriction of going up the Mont Blanc du Tacul has been lifted, but there is no info on the conditions. The Gouter route is still being climbed.
Glacier travel: The Requin hut is becoming more and more inaccessible on the glacier as is the Envers du Plan glacier. The Requin hut will close on the 30th August. The Vallée Blanche traverse between the Aiguille du Midi and Italy is still in condition.
Rockclimbing: The rimaye on the Pyramid du Tacul is really open. The rimaye on the Grand Capucin is still passable on the right side of the glacier. On the Moine the rimaye is open but still passable (crampons required).
Mountaineering: Good conditions on the Point Isabelle and the Courtes traverse. The Col des Cristaux is still very dry (rockfall) and isn't in condition. The Kuffner arete is in good condition. It is still possible to access the bivouac de la Fourche. Good conditions on the Domes de Miage. Good conditions on the Arete Forbes of the Chardonnay (even on the descent route now). There were climbers on the Eperon Migot. Midi Plan is still ok but go back up the Midi because the descent on the Envers glacier is very open.
As of August 23rd:
General: We received 10cm of snow at 3800m on Friday night.
Mont Blanc info: Some climbers have put a track in on the Mont Blanc du Tacul and some people have gone up the Mont Blanc via the Gouter.
As of August 21st:
Mont Blanc info: People went up the Mont Blanc this morning by the 3 Monts and by the Gouter.
As of August 20th:
Mont Blanc info: Yesterday people went up the 3 Monts traverse. There was a little hail at the Cosmiques refuge last night.





