The Chamonix Valley is very famous for its ice falls. In and around Chamonix you can find more than 200 routes for all levels and skills. The valley itself offers you more than 10 spots where you can use your crampons and ice axes. But the good thing is that in a distance of one or two hours driving you can find another two wonderful spots for vertical ice. We're talking about the Swiss Valley of Trient or the Cogne Valley in Italy...
Access is easy, with 10-60 mins walk from the road.
Some of the ice falls are equipped with belays and most have abseil descents.
The ice falls at altitude normally start to form around December.
The lower falls start forming from January onwards with the best ice fall climbing months being between January and February.
Chamonix ValleyTrient Valley, SwitzerlandCogne Valley, ItalyMixed RoutesSecurity
The Chamonix Valley has a number of ice falls of varying length
and degree of difficulty. These are of interest to beginner and expert
alike. There are about 20 sites for ice fall climbing, with the most
popular being at Servoz, Les Houches, the Mont Blanc tunnel entrance,
le Chapeau, Col de Montets and the Argentière Glacier.
Just half an hour driving from Chamonix into Switzerland, you will find the Trient Valley. A very good spot for ice climbing, with ice falls for all levels.
From Chamonix, drive towards the Col de Montets and then through the Swiss border (Chatelard). From here there are several places where you can use your ice axes.
Check out the "topos" for detailed information on the various climbs.
The Cogne Valley in Italy is the paradise
for ice climbers. Cogne is located one and a half hours from Chamonix
by car. You have two small parallel valleys, the "Valnontey" and the "Vallone di
Valeille". The place is wild and beautiful, and sometimes you find yourself climbing side by side with the local fauna!!!
The ice
routes are located all along these two valleys, 5 Kms deep. Thanks to the multitude of lines and routes, it's possible to climb on your own without crossing other parties. There are approximately one hundred routes easy of access in this fantastic area.
Many security factors must be taken into consideration when ice fall climbing: the weather, recent snowfall, temperature changes, ice quality and equipment condition are all factors the ice climber should consider.
The level of difficulty or grade can also change depending on the ice thickness.
Avalanches and falling ice may be a threat.
Care should be taken on approaches. Wear an avalanche tranceivers if in any doubt.
Ice climbing equipment; boots, axes, crampons, screws etc can be purchased or hired in many of the sports shops in the Chamonix valley.There is an abundance of high Mountain Guides and guiding organisations that run ice climbing courses, for beginners and intermediates.