Hike up Mont Blanc, with a snowboard or a pair of skis
, one of the famous routes, such as "The Three Mont Blanc's",
"The Descent of the North Face"
or "The Corridor Route". The most
frequented and most dangerous is the Classic
Route via the Grands Mulets hut at
3051m.
The first ascent
of the Mont Blanc on skis was via the classic route in 1904 by Ugo Mylius
with Oberland guides: Tannler, Maurer and Zurfluh. The first descent
from the summit of Mont Blanc on skis was by a Swiss guide, Elias Julen in 1930.
Marco Siffredi popped up to the Blanc for a quick surf after returning
from his first descent of Mt. Everest on a snowboard in 2001.
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Ski Mont Blanc!
The ideal months to attempt the
Mont Blanc summit on skis is between March and the beginning of July. Two
days are required to complete the trip. 1st day - 3-4hour ascent
to the Grand Mulet hut. 2nd day - 2-6 hours ascent to the summit
then 3-4 hours descent
This is a serious undertaking over crevassed glaciers, some crevasses
are in excess of 80m deep.
Operating at altitude requires a good level of fitness and acclimitisation.
There are many slopes of 35° with very high risk of avalanche and
serac fall, particularly at the Petit Plateau. In bad weather navigation
can be difficult especially on the Col du Dome and the Grand Plateau.
Itinerary:
Day 1 - From the mid-station at the Plan d'Aiguille,
traverse horizontally SW under the N. face of the Aiguille du Midi passing the derelict Gare
des Glaciers lift station to reach the "Jonction" of the
Bossons glacier. This is a heavily crevassed area. Then ascend a steep uniform slope to a rock island and the Grands
Mulet hut.
Day 2 - From the hut climb up the glacier passing the
"Rocher de l'Heureux" to the Petit Plateau. At this point there is danger of serac fall from the ice cliffs high
up on the right. Keep as far left as posible to avoid this danger
and another steeper slope (the Grands Montets) brings you to the easier
slopes of the Grands Plateau.
At 4000m climb up and right to the Col du Dome. Cross the bergeschrund
and head left up to the Vallot hut, where the skis are normally taken off.
From the hut the Bosses ridge is ascended on foot, with crampons.
The Descent of Mont Blanc:
The descent is by the same route and can be
very good. It is normal to get back to Chamonix in one day.
Guide Books
Mont Blanc et Aiguilles Rouges à ski by Anselme Baud (author)
