Climb Mont Blanc, Cosmique Route and Gouter Hut Route

 
 

Chamonix is dominated by the majestic peak of Mont Blanc, 4,810m high, the highest mountain in western Europe.

Every year, the summit of Mont Blanc becomes the ultimate objective for mountaineers from all over the world, all striving to stand on the top of Europe and look down at all of the major summits of the Alps.

Gouter Route to the Summit of Mont Blanc
View from the summit of Mont Blanc
Summit of Mont Blanc viewed from afar

People normally choose one of the two most common routes to climb Mont Blanc from Chamonix. The route from the Aiguille du Midi, over Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit is generally quieter, and highly dependent on conditions, but slightly more technical.

The slightly easier and more reliable option is via the Tramway du Mont Blanc to the Nid d'Aigle, then up the Aiguille du Gouter and the Bosse ridge.

While not technically challenging, ascending Mont Blanc requires a high level of physical fitness and experience using crampons and an ice axe.

Gouter Hut Route

This is the classic and most popular route to climb Mont Blanc. Remember that you need to book in advance the Gouter Refuge. The hut is open from the beginning of June to the end of September. Bookings can ONLY be made online.

Take the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches and then take the Tramway du Mont Blanc to the Nid d'Aigle (2,372m) (here you can find the rates for cable car and the tramway). From here there is about 5 hours of walking/scrambling to the Gouter refuge (3,817m).

The first section is easy walking terrain on a well established path. Just after the Tête Rousse refuge, cross the infamous Grand Couloir where there is often rock fall from above.

The last 550m from here is scrambling rather than walking and not always easy, especially on the descent, because of the tiredness. The second day, leave the Gouter hut and from here on there is glaciated terrain and crampons are required.

Most of the ascent is a long slow plod without any steep ground to encounter. Walk past the Vallot hut, an emergency bivouac, and then climb along the Bosses ridge, the two lumps which form the distinctive skyline seen from the valley.

This is an exposed ridge which requires concentration and good crampon technique. This route takes about 4 hours and a half to reach the summit.

There are two choices for the way down, back to the Aiguille du Midi or back down on the same route.

A mountain guide takes a maximum of two clients on the mountain. Contact the Chamonix High Mountain Guides for further information.

For Reservations:

Tete Rousse Hut - Tel: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97

The Gouter Refuge

Guardians: Amelia Faure and Thomas Duconseille Email: refugedugouter@ffcam.fr Tel: +33 (0)6 72 81 22 08 Website: www.refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

For people wanting a complete trekking guide or the finest routes up the Mont Blanc on hardcover or kindle edition, follow this link and pick from well known guide authors. Don't forget to take a map.

Cosmique Route: the 4,000m traverse 

To climb Mont Blanc using the Cosmique route, take the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3,842m).

From here, descend the Aiguille du Midi arête to the glacier du Tacul, where there is approximately 1 hour walk on easy terrain to the Cosmique Refuge (3,613m). The day after, start climbing the Mont Blanc du Tacul.

This ascent can be difficult at times. Due to warm temperatures, in recent years more crevasses have opened up and, at times, this has required climbing on some steep exposed terrain.

After reaching the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul descend and traverse the Col du Mont Maudit. From here, ascend a long snow slope to the final piece of technical ground, which can be very steep and requires good front pointing technique and use of an ice axe.

Descend once again to Col de la Brenva, with stunning scenery towards Italy, then climb the last few hundred metres to the summit.

Although relatively easy, this is generally quite slow due to the effects of altitude. This route takes approximately 6h to the summit. Descend the same way or via the Gouter, completing the traverse of Mont Blanc.

This is a slightly more demanding route than the Gouter route, both technically and physically. Tackle steeper ground and there are a couple of traverses that may be icy and difficult. Good crampon and ice axe technique are essential. It is, however, a more interesting route with beautiful scenery and is less crowded.

The Cosmique Refuge can also mean a better night's sleep, is less busy and is of a higher standard than the Gouter Refuge. This is a route which is long and sustained, less popular than the classic route, but which traverses the roof of Europe.

The ideal period is from March to September (depending on conditions) 5 - 8 hours of ascent, 3 - 4 hours of descent. 1,300m of ascent, 3,800m of descent.

Difficulty: AD - D, a variant which demands good technique, experience and fitness.

For Reservations:

Cosmiques Hut: Alt - 3,613m - Tel: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16 February - early October 1/2 hr from the Aiguille du Midi cablecar

Climb the Mont Blanc in Winter - Grands Mulets Route

Hike up a famous route with a snowboard or a pair of skis, such as "The Three Mont Blanc's", "The Descent of the North Face" or "The Corridor Route".

The most frequented and most dangerous is the Classic Route via the Grands Mulets hut at 3,051m.

The first ascent of the Mont Blanc on skis was via the classic route in 1904 by Ugo Mylius with Oberland guides: Tannler, Maurer and Zurfluh.

The first descent from the summit on skis was by a Swiss guide, Elias Julen in 1930. Marco Siffredi popped up to the Blanc for a quick surf after returning from his first descent of Mt. Everest on a snowboard in 2001.

More Info about climbing Mont Blanc in the Winter (Skis & Snowboard), click here.