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The Three Mont Blancs
To climb Mont Blanc using the Cosmiques route, you must take the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3,842m). From here, you descend the Aiguille du Midi arête to the glacier du Tacul, where there is approximately 1h walk on easy terrain to the Cosmique Refuge (3,613m).
Domes de Miage and the Mont Blanc
The day after you start climbing the Mont Blanc du Tacul. This ascent can be difficult at times. Due to warm temperatures in recent years more crevasses have opened up and at times this has required climbing on some steep exposed terrain.
After reaching the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul you descend and traverse to the Col du Mont Maudit. From here you ascend a long snow slope to the final piece of technical ground, which can be very steep and requires good front pointing technique and use of an ice axe.Header...
Descending once again to Col de la Brenva with stunning scenery towards Italy, you then climb the last few hundred metres to the summit. Although relatively easy, this is generally quite slow due to the effects of altitude. This route takes approximately 6h to the summit. You may descend the same way or via the Gouter, completing the traverse of Mont Blanc.
Refuge of Vallot
This is a slightly more demanding route than the Gouter route, both technically and physically. You have to tackle steeper ground and there are a couple of traverses that may be icy and difficult. Good crampon and ice axe technique are essential. It is, however, a more interesting route with beautiful scenery and is less crowded.
The Cosmique Refuge can also mean a better nightâs sleep, is less busy and is of a higher standard than the Gouter Refuge. This is a route which is long and sustained, less popular than the classic route, but which traverses the roof of Europe.
The ideal period March to September (depending on conditions)
5 - 8 hrs of ascent, 3 - 4 hrs of descent. 1300m of ascent, 3800m of descent.
Difficulty:
AD - D, a variant which demands good technique, experience and fitness.Header...
Guide Books:
These can be found in any of the sports shops in Chamonix.Header...
Neige, Glace et Mixte - Le topo du massif du Mont-Blanc 1 & 2, de François DamilanoHeader...
Sommets du Mont Blanc, de Jean-Louis Laroche et Florence LelongHeader...
Mont Blanc 4808m: 5 routes to the Summit
de François Damilano
More Resources...Header...
Map : Chamonix - Massif du Mont-Blanc
de Cartes de Randonnées IGNFor Reservations
Cosmiques Hut: Alt - 3613m
February - early October
1/2 hr from Midi lift - Tel: 33 (0)4 50 54 40 16Header...
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