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Chamonix Mont-Blanc Ice Routes

Chamonix Winter Mountaineering - Mont Blanc du Tacul

Chamonix has a great number of quality ice routes/couloirs of varying length and degree of difficulty. Many of these ice routes can be climbed in summer, but are more popular in winter.

Access in winter is generally on ski's, but some approaches can be made on snowshoes.

Winter climbing has added problems like shorter daylight hours, avalanche and serac fall. General mountain safety rules should be followed. For the less experienced climber, mountain guides provide courses and one to one guiding.

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Due to the ease of access provided by the Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc du Tacul has become the most popular high mountain venue. The N.E. face has the finest collection of ice routes / couloirs in the range. Most of the ice routes are equipped with belays and you can abseil down. After climbing, the descent to the valley can be made by skiing down the Vallée Blanche (the easiest option) or by walking / skinning up to the Midi.

A selection of classic routes on the Tacul

Chére Couloir: D-/D, grade 4, 350m, descent on rappel

Albinoni-Gabarrou: TD, grade 4, 550m, snow couloir for 250m then 4-5 steep ice pitches, 6-9 hrs

Modica Noury: next to the Albinoni route, grade 5, 550m

Topos & Guide Books

There are many other areas covered by numerous guide books offering further information on these and other ice routes:

Neige, Glace et Mixte by Francois Damilano and Godefroy Perroux

La Chaine du Mont Blanc 1&2, Guide Vallot

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